Revolver
checkout: how to tell if a particular specimen is any good
By Jim March
So you're buying a revolver. New, used, doesn't
matter, you want a good one, right?
How do check one over without firing it, right at the dealer's counter or
gun show table?
This is how. All of this works with DA or SA wheelguns..."close the action"
on most DAs means swing the cylinder in, on SA types, close the loading
gate, on break-opens, close 'em. UNLOADED.
WARNING: most of these tests require violation of the "finger off trigger"
rule. Therefore, be extremely careful about safe muzzle direction and making
sure the gun is unloaded ahead of time, PERSONALLY, as you begin handling
it.
Note: bring a small flashlight, something small and concentrated. A Photon
or similar high-powered LED light is perfect. You also want feeler gauges
if you're not used to eyeballing cylinder gaps; at a minimum, bring a .002",
.004" and .006".
Note2: no dry firing is required or desired at any point. It just pisses
off the gun's current owner.
Cylinder play.
1) With the gun UNLOADED (check for yourself!), close the action.
2) Thumb the hammer back, and while pulling the trigger, gently lower the
hammer all the way down while keeping the trigger back - and KEEP holding
the trigger once the hammer is down. (You've now put the gun in "full lockup"
- keep it there for this and most other tests.)
3) With the trigger still back all the way, check for cylinder wiggle. Front/back
is particularly undesirable; a bit of side to side is OK but it's a bad
thing if you can wiggle it one way, let go, and then spin it the other way
a fraction of an inch and it stays there too. At the very least, it should
"want" to stop in just one place (later, we'll see if that place is any
good). The ultimate is a "welded to the frame" feeling.
Cylinder gap
4) Still holding the trigger at full lockup, look sideways through the barrel/cylinder
gap. If you can get a credit card in there, that ain't good...velocity drops
rapidly as the gap increases. Too tight isn't good either, because burnt
powder crud will "fill the gap" and start making the cylinder spin funky.
My personal .38 snubbie is set at .002, usually considered the minimum...after
about 40 shots at the range, I have to give the front of the cylinder a
quick wipe so it spins free again. I consider that a reasonable tradeoff
for the increased velocity because in a real fight, I ain't gonna' crank
40 rounds out of a 5-shot snub.
If you're eyeballing it, you'll have to hold it up sideways against an overhead
light source.
SAFETY WARNING: This step in particular is where you MUST watch your
muzzle direction. Look, part of what's happening here is that you're convincing
the seller you know your poop. It helps the haggling process. If you do
anything unsafe, that impression comes completely unglued.
Timing
5) You really, REALLY want an unloaded gun for this one. This is where the
light comes in. With the gun STILL held in full lockup, trigger back after
lowering the hammer by thumb, you want to shine a light right into the area
at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin. You then look down the
barrel. You're looking to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the
barrel. Check every cylinder - that means putting the gun in full lockup
for each cylinder before lighting it up.
You're looking for the cylinder and barrel holes to line up perfectly, it's
easy to eyeball if there's even a faint light source at the very rear of
both bores. And with no rounds present, it's generally easy to get some
light in past where the rims would be.
Bore
(We're finally done with that "full lockup" crap, so rest your trigger finger.)
6) Swing the cylinder open, or with most SAs pull the cylinder. Use the
small flashlight to scope the bore out. This part's easy - you want to avoid
pitting, worn-out rifling, bulges of any sort. You want more light on the
subject than just what creeps in from the rear of the cylinder on the timing
check.
You also want to check each cylinder bore, in this case with the light coming
in from the FRONT of each hole, you looking in from the back where the primers
would be. You're looking for wear at the "restrictions" at the front of
each cylinder bore. That's the "forcing cone" area and it can wear rapidly
with some Magnum loads. (Special thanks to Salvo below for this bit!)
Trigger
7) To test a trigger without dry-firing it, use a plastic pen in front of
the hammer to "catch" it with the off hand, especially if it's a "firing
pin on the hammer" type. Or see if the seller has any snap-caps, that's
the best solution. Flat-faced hammers as found in transfer-bar guns (Ruger,
etc) can be caught with the off-hand without too much pain.
SA triggers (or of course a DA with the hammer cocked) should feel "like
a glass rod breaking". A tiny amount of take-up slack is tolerable, and
is common on anything with a transfer bar or hammer block safety.
DA triggers are subjective. Some people like a dead-smooth feel from beginning
of stroke to the end, with no "warning" that it's about to fire. Others
(myself included) actually prefer a slight "hitch" right at the end, so
we know when it's about to go. With that sort of trigger, you can actually
"hold it" right at the "about to fire" point and do a short light stroke
from there that rivals an SA shot for accuracy. Takes a lot of practice
though. Either way, you don't want "grinding" through the length of the
stroke, and the final stack-up at the end (if any) shouldn't be overly pronounced.
Detecting Bad Gunsmithing:
8) OK, so it's got a rock-solid cylinder, a .002" or .003" gap, and the
trigger feels great. Odds are vastly in favor of it being tuned after leaving
the factory.
So was the gunsmith any good?
First, cock it, then grab the hammer and "wiggle it around" a bit. Not too
hard, don't bang on it, but give it a bit of up/down, left/right and circular
action with finger off trigger and WATCH your muzzle direction.
You don't want that hammer slipping off an overly polished sear. You REALLY
don't want that. It can be fixed by installing factory parts but that'll
take modest money (more for installation than hardware costs) and it'll
be big time unsafe until you do.
The other thing that commonly goes wrong is somebody will trim the spring,
especially coil springs. You can spot that if you pull the grip panels,
see if the spring was trimmed with wire cutters. If they get too wild with
it, you'll get ignition failures on harder primers. But the good news is,
replacement factory or Wolf springs are cheap both to buy and have installed.
There's also the legal problems Ayoob frequently describes regarding light
triggers. If that's a concern, you can either swap back to stock springs,
or since you bought it used there's no way to prove you knew it was modified
at all.
In perspective:
Timing (test #5) is very critical...if that's off, the gun may not even
be safe to test-fire. And naturally, a crappy barrel means a relatively
pricey fix.
Cylinder gap is particularly critical on short-barreled and/or marginal
caliber guns. If you need every possible ounce of energy, a tight gap helps.
Some factory gaps will run as high as .006"; Taurus considers .007" "still
in spec" (sigh). You'll be hard-pressed to find any new pieces under .004"
- probably because the makers realize some people don't clean 'em often
(or very well) and might complain about the cylinder binding up if they
sell 'em at .002".
The guns in a dealer's "used pile" are often of unknown origin, from estate
sales or whatever. Dealers don't have time to check every piece, and often
don't know their history. These tests, especially cyliner gap and play,
can spot a gun that's been sent off for professional tuning...like my snubbie,
the best $180 I ever spent.
As long as the gun is otherwise sound (no cracks, etc) a gunsmith can fix
any of this. So these tests can help you pick a particularly good new specimen,
or find a good used gun, or help haggle the price down on something that'll
need a bit of work.
Hope this helps.
