THE REVOLVER AS A CARRY WEAPON
January 5th, 2009 by Syd
By Gabe Suarez
How many of you carry wheelguns?
Jeff Cooper once told me that, in the old days of training, half of a typical pistol class would be comprised of auto-loading handguns - Typically Browning/Colt types. The other half, usually police officers, would be armed with revolvers. He said that this trend slowly began to change in the early eighties. By the time I attended his courses in the late eighties, it was rare to see a revolver-armed student.
This trend was also seen in law enforcement. I went through my original Police Academy pistol training, back in the old days, with a revolver (S&W Model 67). The most common sidearm for many officers, at that time, was some sort of Smith & Wesson or Colt revolver, usually .38 Special or .357 Magnum. Today, however, you rarely see revolvers in the field, and then only in the holsters of older officers, usually just months from retirement. Most of the newer breed sport Glocks, Berettas, and other ultra-modern handguns. The feeling among many officers is that the "wheelgun" is obsolete. For many, its only true role is that of last-ditch backup in the form of a 2" Barreled .38 snubbie. Is the revolver obsolete? Let’s think about this.
While, I am one of those who favors a modern handgun (Glock in my case), I am not so quick to dismiss a good revolver. The revolver is very effective as a fighting tool. All you need do to verify that is study your history. A fighting handgun, regardless of design, is intended for a specific mission. That mission, specifically, is to allow its operator to respond to unanticipated threats, quickly and in a powerful manner. That mission is the same today, as it was 50 years ago. These confrontations have always been characterized by high intensity, short duration violence, where so-called firepower is rarely an issue. Of greater importance is the ability to deal the adversary a solid and powerful blow, before he does the same to you. Most revolvers designed for anti-personnel use fulfill that mission as well as any other handgun, but no handgun is powerful enough to come with a 100% guarantee. Sometimes a follow-up shot…or two is needed. So controllability becomes an issue.
Many fighting revolvers are of the .38/.357 caliber family. This will do fine as long as careful ammunition selection takes place. Some .357 magnum loads, for example, are dramatically over-penetrative and exhibit excessive muzzle flash. Other loads, which are just as effective against humans, do not share the same characteristics of penetration and muzzle flash.
Revolvers are also available in .40/.44 caliber. In my opinion, although larger than their 357 caliber cousins, provide a greater potential of creating damage to the adversary. Be careful with load selection again. It is a rare individual who can control a full-house .44 magnum in hammers and multiple target engagements. Don’t trust your life to "magic bullet" propaganda. A thorough study of the literature available from forensic specialists on wound trauma, and terminal ballistics should be your guide.
While on the issue of weapon control, mention must be made of the grips on a revolver (Yeah, I know. Cooper used to call them "stocks". I don’t care. To me stocks belong on a rifle). Many of the wooden grips originally sold on revolvers were there as almost an after thought. This has changed in recent years as revolver manufacturers attempt to regain a share of the market. These weapons are now being sold with more suitable grips from the factory. Whether you retain the factory standard or purchase some type of after-market grips, be certain that the left-side panel allows clearance for speed-loader insertion and manipulation. If this is not the case, either change them, or modify them.
Additionally, any sharp edges or points on a weapon intended for combative use are to be avoided. Briskly rub your hands all over the revolver. Anyplace you find a sharp edge, remove it. Do this even if refinishing the weapon is needed as a result. This is not an issue with the stainless steel revolvers, but it may with a blue steel weapon.
Skill requires practice, both dry and live-fire. This is something you’ll probably avoid if your gun tears up your hands so much that you need to keep some bandages and plasma around when you practice.
Along with control, accuracy is of great importance. The two things on a revolver affecting this the most, assuming that everything is in working order, are the sights and the trigger. Revolver sights come in adjustable and fixed varieties. Either one is acceptable, as long as they are easy to see quickly under stress, and in dim light. Avoid any sights that are extremely high profile, or which have sharp edges. Again, sharp, hand-slashing points may be rounded off with a file. For those who operate in low light environments, tritium sights are available for many revolvers.
The actual trigger on most revolvers is suitable as issued. It should not be excessively wide, nor should it have grooves or other additions on its face. Smooth and polished is the best type of trigger face. Remember, most combat revolver shooting will be done in double action, so a trigger that allows easy double action work is preferred. There is little that the individual can do in order to alter the actual weight of the trigger press. This is the realm of the revolver-gunsmith. Whatever you do, do not cut the springs on your revolver. If you wish a lighter, smoother trigger, you can have one, but there are no shortcuts here.
Revolvers are issued with all sorts of barrel lengths. Again, keep sight of the mission. These weapons will be carried in and presented from a holster. A very long barrel will be slow and difficult to maneuver. Similarly detrimental, an extremely short barrel will sacrifice other mission requirements. A good compromise is something in the 4 inch to 6 inch range. If concealment is the paramount concern, I don’t think the adversary at three feet will care what length the barrel is so go for a 3 inch or 2 inch version.
Those are all the requirements of a fighting revolver. I have found that when compared to the auto-loading pistols, unless the test is slanted toward the auto-loader, the revolver is just as useful. With proper ammunition, the revolver gives away nothing to the auto-loader in terms of terminal ballistics. The only area where it is surpassed by the auto-loader is when long strings of fire are faced, which may be a requirement in the fight.
The revolver skills that an operator must have to be effective are the same ones he would need if equipped with an auto-loader. Constant attention must be given to double action trigger manipulation. This is the heart of the wheelgun, so dry practice the DA trigger day and night. Along with this, manipulating Speed Loaders is of great importance, as is developing ability to maneuver individual rounds during tactical reloads. This is the only weakness of the revolver, so make allowance for that. In order to be the best you can be with the revolver, it is essential to seek out and obtain professional instruction.
Is the revolver dead? In a word, no. I suspect that as we move deeper into the 21st century, however, we will see few revolvers in holsters as "primary weapons". For those who are required to carry it, or for those who favor its simplicity, the revolver will still allow them to do just as well in a confrontation as long as the operator does his part. As we’ve always said, It is the man, and not the weapon which makes the difference.
Gabe Suarez
One Source Tactical
Suarez International USA
Christian Warrior Ministries
I carry wheel-guns, as anyone who’s visited my blog can see. My primary carry is a 5-shot S&W M442 snubbie in a pocket holster. I sitck it in my pocket when I dress and carry it all day. If I’m going out and know I won’t be removing my coat/jacket, I’ll add my 2 1/2″ S&W M13 in an IWB holster (see my profile pic).
Since the 442 is a light-weight, I carry standard .38 LWSCHP in it. I carry the same ammo in the M-13 except it is +P. I buy my ammo from Buffalo Bore who sells ammo specifically loaded for short-nosed revolvers.
If I’m low on .38 ammo for the M13, I’ve been known to carry an Officer’s Model 1911 in .45ACP.
Revolvers are simple. The only safety is keeping your finger off the trigger. It won’t go BOOM if you don’t pull the trigger.
I also have a 4″ M19 loaded with .357 SP in the car—just in case.
I traded a Taurus PT-909 17rd 9mm for a hammerless .357M. I carry it IWB. If I ever switch to anything else it will be a Kimber Ultra Carry II or the like.
I decided on the Smith 637 for concealed carry after careful consideration. I have a Springfield Champion 1911 with a four inch heavy barrel … obviously tremendous stopping power, but weighs in at over 40oz with a full clip.
I have never forgotten an article I read penned by a retired undercover cop. The 38 snubby is hard to beat on the firepower to weight/size aspect … and nearly impossible to wrest from your hand by an attacker without losing a finger.
A final consideration that came to mind as I pulled out the plastic. As the days of the 2nd Amendment come to a close a firearm with no clips to lose and fewer parts to break is a big plus.
I think it may be a little extreme to say that the day of the 2nd Amendment is coming to a close. Remember, America is still a representative republic and the soap and ballot boxes have not been nullified yet.
As to no clips (you probably meant magazines) to lose and fewer parts to break I can only say that regardless of the state of 2A you need to consider that in ANY gun you buy. It just sucks too much to pull the trigger and get either click or silence rather than BANG.
I really like Gabe’s thought process on most everything he writes. I’ll throw a link up.
I agree, revolvers are far from dead,and will always find a place amoung gunnies. Myself, I carry my Taurus M85 during the hot southern months and keep the S&W M19-3 for my bed side gun.
None of my guns have more miles with me than my snubbies. I wouldn’t know what to do without them.
For my 2 cents worth.
For me the best carry is the S&W Model 36, 5 shot Chief’s Special. I have been carrying one for 35 years. The first 23 as a police officer in a major department( 1973-96) and the last 12 as a retiree.
After the initial purchase ( and it didn’t cost me over $700 bucks as is listed the price on S&W’s web site ). I had the hammer spur removed so it wouldn’ t hang up on clothing, especially the insides of pockets.
The 36 served as my departmentally approved off duty weapon. I continued to use it as my off duty weapon even after my department issued the Glock 17 as the official service weapon, as a replacement for the S&W
I qualified numerous times with the 36 but had to use oversized grips, and not the ones supplied, as the issued grips didn’t give me enough wood to wrap my hand around. But for every day use, I use the issued grips and often just slip into my pants or jacket pocket, or carry it in an inside the belt holster.
As a retired cop I don’t see myself being required to provide suppression fire at 20 or 25 yards, so the big grips are used primarily in the winter months when concealment is not a major issue.
I ‘m loaded with the Federal 110 grain Hydra-Shok JHP round.
For me, the 36 is the best close quarter weapon to carry, and to be used only for only those times of existential threat, which one hopes never occur. It is the best weapon to reach out and touch someone up close and personal and not “spray and pray” as you might be inclined to with a 15 to 17 shot semi.
Glock 36 in my carry holster, but I shoot my S&W Model 19, 4 incher, into a group half the size at 15 yards. (double action). The Glock is smaller, lighter, much easier to conceal and faster to reload. Still, if concealment wasn’t an issue, I think I’d carry the Model 19.
I’ve picked up a Model 36 with a 3″ barrel. I’m not sure if it’s safe to fire with +P ammo or not and am strongly considering Syd’s advice as to accuracy of shot placement with LRN as opposed to “stopping power” that doesn’t hit where the fixed sights point. I had a gun smith sweeten the action and take the serrations off the trigger that chewed my finger in double action mode.
I also have a 642 that is safe for +P. The barrel there is below 2″ long.
I’ve been lusting for a .357 in 3″ barrel, either a Smith or a Ruger SP101. So far I’ve had to pass but I’m keeping eyes peeled.
Thus far, though my daily carry load consists of a Glock 23 and 2 spare mags in a carry set (holster, mag carrier and belt) from Crossbreed.
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The United States Gun Owners Association is UP and running, you and your readers are invited!! We need ALL the help we can get!
I am a glock guy i carry a g17 and love it ,swear by it. i rented a ruger super redhawk at the range the other day in 44mag just for fun. I shot the best group at 20y i have ever period (cocked sa). now i am going to be getting a nice little whell gun back up soon! I will practice with it double action as well.
Some of us are getting worried…
Are you OK Syd??
My favorite carry guns are a more-or-less stock 1911 and a S&W 4″ .41 Mag. They fit in the same pouch; I’m never gonna be a quick-draw artist. I have a somewhat beat-up Detective Special, which I thought I’d be carrying, but somehow I hardly ever do.
That said, though, for pure shooting fun what I always seem to grab when heading for the range is a pair of Rugers, a GP100 with the 6″ barrel and a target Mk II .22. I have a shoulder rig that’s very comfortable for the GP100, but who the hell wears a sportcoat all the time nowadays?
When I had to be away from home for a while due to a consulting gig, I managed to talk my fuzzy-liberal wife into learning to shoot one of my guns. I urged her to use a revolver, for all the reasons outlined so well above, but her particular favorite turned out to be a beat-up military HiPower. Yeah, she learned The Drill and is now a decent shot out to 15 yards or so. And she’ll not hesitate to pull the trigger (after racking the slide) if she thinks the kids are in danger.
So in the great Auto vs Revolver debate, it seems, as in nearly everything else, It All Depends…
Ditto to number 14.
My 15 year old Taurus .38 will always be my favorite carry piece, for it’s history if anything. Do I always carry it? No, there are places I go I want a .45 but it will never be replaced.
I carried a 1911 or Beretta 92 for 30 years (USMC) I then carried a Glock for 15 years. Now I carry revolvers, a 640 or (1951) M&P 2″ for OWB and a 642 in pocket holster when I can’t OWB.
Revolver:
Simple drill (KISS)
Uber reliable
Easy to conceal
Reliable cartridge (.38 Spcl)
Nuff said!
Syd is fine - I email chatted with him last week, he’s just off blog for a bit.
I live in a rural area and see our deputies still wearing wheelguns. I know one of the younger detectives with the sheriff’s office carries a 3 inch S&W 686. Our constable carries a S&W 19.
I have carried my Taurus M-85ul since I received my ccw in Ohio. I have other handguns that may be more powerful and have bigger ammo capacities, but I am quite confident in my ability to use my snub-nose if the circumstance arises. Practice is essential to use any firearm efficiantly. The 2 inch .38 is no different.